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Typical prices for snaking, jetting, and chemical treatment, what moves the number, and whether roots come back.
Call (888) 217-5859Tree roots are the top cause of repeat sewer backups in older Richton Park homes, and "how much will it cost to get them out?" is the question that follows. There is no single price, because cutting a light root intrusion out of a reachable line is a far smaller job than jetting a root-packed clay lateral or repairing a pipe the roots have broken. This guide breaks down the typical ranges, what drives them, and how to keep the roots from coming right back.
These are general U.S. ranges reported by national cost guides, useful for setting expectations. They are not a quote, and your actual price depends on your line:
| Root removal method | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Chemical / foaming root killer (DIY) | $15 - $100 |
| Mechanical rodding / snaking the roots | $100 - $600 |
| Hydro jetting a root-filled line | $350 - $800+ |
| Sewer camera inspection (standalone) | $100 - $300 |
| Pipe repair if roots cracked the line (per foot) | $50 - $250 |
These figures are general estimates from cost-guide sources, not a price quote from this site or any provider. The only way to get your real number is a quick call so a local plumber can scope the job.
Two root problems that look the same from your bathroom can be very different jobs underground. The price comes down to a handful of factors:
Mechanical rodding runs a spinning cutter head down the line to shear the roots off flush with the pipe wall. It restores flow quickly and is the lower-cost way to deal with a root clog - see drain snaking and rodding. The catch is that it leaves the root stubs behind, so they regrow.
Hydro jetting costs more upfront because it scours the full pipe wall with high-pressure water, stripping roots, grease, and scale back further than a cutter reaches. For a root-prone line, jetting buys more time before the next intrusion, which can cost less over a few years than rodding the same pipe every few months. The trade-offs are covered in hydro jetting vs drain snaking and what hydro jetting costs.
Foaming root killers are the least expensive option on the shelf, and they do something real: the foam coats the inside of the pipe and kills the root tips it touches, so over a few weeks the treated roots wither and the drain opens up a little. As a low-cost way to slow regrowth between professional cleanings, they have a place. What they do not do is clear a line that is already packed with roots, and they do not stop new roots from finding the same cracked joint. Think of them as maintenance, not a repair. For a line that is backing up now, mechanical clearing comes first.
Usually, yes - unless the way in is sealed. Roots invade a sewer line because water vapor leaks out of a crack or a loose joint, and the roots follow that moisture. Cut them out and the pipe still leaks, so the roots return, often within a year or two. That is why a lasting fix pairs clearing with a look at the pipe: a camera inspection shows whether the joint can be managed with scheduled jetting and root treatment, or whether the damaged section needs a repair or a trenchless liner to close the opening for good. Our guide on tree roots in your sewer line goes deeper on the signs and fixes.
Sometimes the roots are the symptom and a broken pipe is the real problem. If a camera shows a cracked, offset, or collapsed section, clearing the roots only restores flow until they grow back through the same gap. Repair pricing is usually quoted by the foot, and the range is wide because it depends on depth, length, and method. A spot repair of one bad joint is far cheaper than replacing a full lateral. For typical figures, see how much sewer line repair costs.
Paying for a camera inspection before major work often saves money rather than adding to it. The footage shows exactly where the roots are, how bad the intrusion is, and whether the pipe is intact - so you clear what needs clearing and repair only what is actually broken. It also gives you a record to push back on any suggestion to replace a whole line when the camera shows a single bad joint. Many plumbers roll the camera into a root job; ask whether it is included.
A few simple habits protect your wallet:
Local conditions push more homes toward the higher end of the range. Many houses across Richton Park, Matteson, Park Forest, and the surrounding South Suburbs were built decades ago with clay tile sewer pipe, and clay joints are exactly what tree roots exploit. Mature parkway trees along older streets make it worse, so root intrusion and repeat backups are common here. The upside: clearing the line properly and cameraing the pipe once tends to hold up far longer than a quick rod-out that leaves the joint open.
To get a real number for your line, call and get connected with a local plumber who can scope the job - see all service areas or browse the blog.
Answers
Clearing roots from a sound line usually falls in the low-to-mid hundreds of dollars. Mechanical rodding is the lower-cost method, hydro jetting costs more because it scours the pipe wall, and a DIY foaming root killer is least expensive but only slows regrowth. If the roots have cracked the pipe, that repair is separate and priced by the foot. A local plumber confirms the number after a look.
Mechanical rodding to cut roots out typically ranges from about $100 to $600, depending on how much root is in the line and how easy the line is to reach. A branch line with light roots sits at the low end; a root-packed main line with no accessible cleanout sits higher. Get the price agreed before work begins.
Yes. Hydro jetting uses high-pressure water to strip roots, grease, and scale off the full pipe wall, reaching further than a cutter head. It commonly starts around the mid-hundreds and runs higher for heavy root jobs. Because it clears more thoroughly, it usually buys more time before the next intrusion than rodding does.
A foaming root killer from the hardware store is the least expensive option, often $15 to $100. It kills root tips and slows regrowth, but it will not clear a line that is already blocked and will not seal the crack the roots came through. For a line backing up now, mechanical clearing comes first; chemicals are better as ongoing maintenance.
They do a limited job. The foam coats the pipe and kills the roots it touches, so over a few weeks treated roots wither and flow improves. That makes them useful for slowing regrowth between professional cleanings. They do not remove a heavy root mass or stop new roots from finding the same leaking joint, so they are maintenance, not a repair.
Usually yes, unless the way in is sealed. Roots enter through a crack or loose joint that leaks water, and cutting them out leaves that opening intact, so they return, often within a year or two. A camera inspection shows whether scheduled jetting and root treatment will hold the line or whether the damaged section needs a repair or trenchless liner to close the gap.
Clearing roots is far cheaper than replacing the line and is the right first step when the pipe is still sound. Replacement makes sense only when a camera shows the pipe is badly cracked, offset, or collapsed and roots keep returning through the same damage. Often a spot repair or trenchless liner of the bad section costs much less than a full replacement.
Usually not. Standard homeowners policies tend to treat root intrusion and the cleaning or repair it causes as a maintenance issue, which is excluded. Some insurers offer a separate sewer or service-line endorsement that may help with a sudden line failure. Coverage varies, so check your specific policy and keep any camera footage as documentation.
Call now to get connected with a local plumber who can clear the roots and scope the line across Richton Park and the South Suburbs.
